2011/20: Should girls under 16 be allowed into fashion modelling?
What they said...
'They are growing up in an extremely appearance-focused culture; the modelling industry can be diabolical for the mental health and wellbeing of some kids'
Julie Gale, director, Kids Free 2B Kids
'Age is such a personal thing; sometimes you're not ready at 18; or maybe you're ready at 13'
Alexandra Agoston, international fashion model, who began working in the industry at 14
The issue at a glance
On November 16, 2011, a Sydney model agency GEAR announced that it was seeking boys and girls aged between the ages of 13 and 19. The agency claimed that for many 16 was too old to seek to become part of the fashion industry. A representative further claimed that many talented young Australians were missing out on an overseas modelling career because they left it too late to enter the industry.
These claims have met with criticism from a range of fashion industry spokespeople, from child psychologists and from the federal education minister.
Background
(Most of the information below has been obtained from the Wikipedia entry
'model'. The full text of this entry can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_(person)
A model, sometimes called a mannequin, is a person who is employed to display, advertise and promote commercial products (notably fashion clothing) or to serve as a subject of works of art.
Modelling is distinguished from other types of public performance, such as an acting, dancing or mime artist, although the boundary is not well defined. Appearing in a movie or a play is not considered modelling.
Types of modelling include fashion, glamour, fitness, bikini, fine art, and body-part models. Models are featured in a variety of media formats including books, magazines, movies, newspapers, and TV. Models sometimes are featured in films (Looker, Tattoo), reality television shows (America's Next Top Model, The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency), or music videos ("Freedom! '90", "Wicked Game", "Daughters").
Runway modelling
Runway models showcase clothes from fashion designers, fashion media, and consumers. They are also called "live models" and are self employed. Runway models work in different locations, constantly travelling between those cities where fashion is well known - London, Milan, New York City, and Paris.
The demands for runway models include certain height and weight requirements. During runway shows, models have to constantly change clothes and makeup. The models turn and stand to demonstrate the garment's key features. Models also go to interviews (called "go and sees") and must keep a portfolio of their work. They go to modelling interviews to find more work. The more experience a model has, the more likely she is to be hired for a fashion show. A runway model can work in other areas, such as department store fashion shows, creating product lines and acting. The often thin shape of many fashion models has been criticized for warping girls' body image and encouraging eating disorders.
Salary
Despite the stereotype of modelling as a lucrative and glamorous profession, according to the United States Bureau of Labour Statistics the median wage for commercial and print models was only $11.22 per hour in 2006. MarketWatch listed modelling as one of the ten worst jobs in America. Print models generally earn low wages working for low-budget clients such as manufacturers or stores. Experienced print models make $200 to $500 per hour. Print models that work with an agent give 15% to 20% of earnings to the agent. The most famous print models make thousands of dollars an hour.
Beginner female runway models make less money than models that have experience. The average wage for a female runway model can range from $ 250 -$1,000 an hour per runway walk. The annual salary of a top runway model can exceed $500,000. Costs of travel, transportation, food, hotels, etc. are deducted from the model's pay. Fashion models under contract after discovery by editors, cosmetic companies, photographers, and fashion industry professionals can make from $300,000 to $2 million per year.
Male runway models make less than female runway models. Beginner male models can earn up to $150 per shoot. Famous male models make at least $500,000 per year. Designer clothing and fragrance ads pay the most money. A male runway model can earn from $8,000-$15,000 per day for high-end catalogues.
Age limits
In 2008 Australian Fashion Week introduced a minimum age of 16 for models after a backlash over the scheduled appearance of a 14-year-old Polish girl, Monika Jagaciak. Fashion weeks around the world have barred models under 16.
L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival, along with most glossy fashion magazines, also has an age limit of 16 for its models.
Internet information
On October 5, 2010, the online magazine, 'About Kids health' published a critique of the growing sexualisation of young girls.
The full text of the article can be found at http://www.aboutkidshealth.ca/En/News/NewsAndFeatures/Pages/Sexy-babies-how-sexualization-hurts-girls.aspx
On August 12, 2011, the online newspaper 'Intentious' published a report on Paris Vogue's use of a ten-year-old model in what it termed 'provocative poses'.
The full text of the article can be found at http://intentious.com/2011/08/12/provocative-poses/
On September 1, 2011, the women's magazine Marie Claire ran a report titled, 'Designers unit to ban under age models'. The report looks at the challenge for the European fashion industry posed by some girls from the former eastern bloc who have been misrepresenting their age when seeking work as models.
The full text of the article can be found at http://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/marie-claire/fashion/news/article/-/10162657/designers-unite-to-ban-underage-models/
On September 5, 2011, The Courier Mail ran a news report titled, 'Australia's Next Top Model contestant claims "dangerous message" in body size criticism'. The report looks at the recent negative comments made about a contestant who was criticised for being overweight despite being a size 8.
The full text of the article can be found at http://www.couriermail.com.au/entertainment/tv/my-bum-doesnt-look-big-in-this/story-e6freqj6-1226129295238
On September 21, 2011, Mission Australia published the findings of a recent survey they had conducted among 50,000 Australians aged between 11 and 24 who ranked body image as the top issue of personal concern to them. The full text of the article can be found at http://www.missionaustralia.com.au/daily-news/3572-promoting-positive-body-image-in-young-people
On November 10, 2011, Mail Online ran a report on the budding career of fashion model Kate Moss's 13-year-old half sister, Lottie. The full text of the article can be read at http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2060043/Kate-Moss-half-sister-Lottie-13-set-cause-storm-modelling-world-signed-agency-supermodel-sibling.html
On November 15, 2011, The Daily Telegraph ran a report on the recent win of 13-year-old Chloe Glassie in the Girlfriend Rimmel Model Search. The full text of this article can be found at http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/entertainment/sydney-confidential/model-miss-chloe-glassie-is-walking-in-miranda-kerrs-footsteps/story-e6frewz0-1226195929288
On November 17, 2011, the New Zealand Herald ran a report on a representative from the Australian model agency GEAR claiming that 16 was too old to begin in the fashion industry.
The full text of this article can be found at
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/fashion-beauty/news/article.cfm?c_id=42&objectid=10766596
Arguments against girls under 16 being allowed into fashion modelling
1. Modelling can be harmful for the young girls involved
It has been claimed using young girls as fashion models involves the premature sexualisation of the girls involved. The clothes they wear and the pouting, provocative postures they are often required to adopt has been seen as inappropriate and potentially damaging for girls as young as 13 and 14.
This point has been made by Peter Garrett, the federal minister for Education. Mr Garrett has stated, 'Still there is no question that the sexualisation of children is prevalent because some sections of the fashion industry are willing it on. But it should be resisted, and here consumers, media, industry and governments alike have a role to play.'
The issue was brought into high relief in August 2011, when French Vogue featured an 11-year-old model in what many regarded as provocative poses. On August 11, the online journal, Intentious, stated, 'What is particularly worrying about the Vogue Paris shoot is that it is represents the attempts fashion makes to sexualize inappropriately young girls every day and no one seems to attend to the problem.'
It has further been claimed that the demands that modelling places on young girls to maintain a low body weight is unrealistic for many and can lead to self-esteem issues and eating disorders.
Kids Free 2B Kids director Julie Gale has claimed that teenagers are experiencing unprecedented levels of anxiety, depression and eating disorders.
Ms Gale has stated, 'And they are growing up in an extremely appearance-focused culture; the modelling industry can be diabolical for the mental health and wellbeing of some kids.'
Federal Education Minister, Mr Garrett, has stated, 'As a parent of three young women, one of whom is a part-time model, I am well aware of the pressures that exist in the industry and the link between the projection of unrealistic images and expectations and poor body image.'
2. Very young models can harm the body image and reduce the safety of their peers and of older women
It has been claimed that using very young models as fashion models not only potentially harms the girls themselves but also those who seek to look like them.
It has been claimed that it promotes poor self-image and eating disorders.
The federal Education Minister, Mr Peter Garrett, has stated, 'As Minister for Youth I'm aware that our goal of providing the opportunity for all young people to lead happy and healthy lives, with sufficient resilience to manage the turbulent journey through the teenage years to adulthood, will be harder to reach if we have a culture that continues to misrepresent images, especially through the use of very young people as role models.
And after all, what can be more unrealistic than a well groomed 13-year-old on a runway in haute couture?'
It has further been claimed that the sexualisation of girls from an early age encourages the sexual harassment and abuse of all women.
On October 5, 2010, the online journal, About Kids' Health, stated, 'Sexual harassment perpetrated by boys and men in schools and in the workplace is a common form of social aggression. Girls as young as 10 experience sexual harassment at school. Pubertal development leads to increased sexual harassing comments for girls, in turn promoting increased feelings of shame about their bodies. Sexual abuse, the most damaging form of sexual harassment, has a lifetime prevalence rate for women of between 15% and 20%.'
3. Many young models are unable to give informed consent or deal with the pressures involved
It has been claimed that many young models are in fact too young to recognise the nature of the career in which they have become involved or to deal with the associated pressures.
On November 17, 2011, Vaimoana Tapaleao, of The New Zealand Herald, stated, 'In some cases, even older teenagers were still too young ...[For] a 16-year-old from a small town or even a bigger town in New Zealand it is a monumental culture shock to land in a city like Manhattan [in New York].'
Child psychologist Dr Michael Carr-Gregg has claimed that 13-year-olds have no place in the high-pressure fashion industry.
Dr Carr-Gregg has stated, 'No 13-year-old has sufficiently emotional, cognitive or intellectual maturity to handle an international modelling career.
This is a further example of a disturbing trend towards the adultification of young people and the erosion of childhood. I would politely question the motives of any parent or adult care-giver who allowed their child to pursue this course at such a young age. Whose needs are being met?'
4. Very young models are not suitable to model clothing for older women
It has been claimed that very young girls are used to model designs that are not likely to look well on women of normal, adult proportions.
On December 18, 2011, Kirstie Clements of The Telegraph stated, 'If you design clothes that don't flatter the female form you will need to model them on barely-there young girls to make them seem palatable and desirable...
But I watch the fashion shows, and indeed edit Vogue, as both a critic and a consumer. I find it hard to connect with models under 16 selling clothes to mature women...
I'm smart enough to recognise the beauty of an image, and the glossing-over of reality. I love it. But I really don't want to see fashion on 15-year-olds.'
5. Most designers, agencies and magazines do not prefer very young models
Many designers, agencies and magazines will not take on girls under 16 because they believe they are too young to deal with the pressures and do represent the image being sought.
The editor of Harper's Bazaar, Edwina McCann, has stated, 'To suggest that 16-year-olds are too old for the modelling world is ridiculous. I know girls are often discovered under the age of 16 but generally we have a policy that they don't appear in the magazine until they are 16.'
In 2008, Australian Fashion Week introduced a minimum age of 16 for models. Fashion weeks around the world have similarly barred models under 16.
Members of the Australian industry have claimed that 13 was too young to appear in international advertising campaigns or on the runway. Chich Management director, Kathy Ward, has stated, 'International clients do not book 'children' for their campaigns and they [GEAR] should be closed down for trying to push that message.'
Arguments in favour of girls under 16 being allowed into fashion modelling
1. Girls who wish to model should be able to choose to do so
Alexandra Agoston was a taken on by a modelling agency at 14. She believes that young girls who are suitably mature should be able to pursue their career even if they are less than 16.
Ms Agoston states, 'Age is such a personal thing; sometimes you're not ready at 18; or maybe you're ready at 13. It's not an industry where you learn A, B and C and then you're ready. It's hard to put a structure to it.'
The director of GEAR, Dragan Dimovski, has stated, 'I do not believe that 13 is too young. These young people are gaining an understanding and learning the expectations for what is to come in the future so that they are well prepared for the lucrative, demanding fashion industry.'
Commentator Libbi Gorr has stated, 'If you are lucky enough to have been born freakishly beautiful, it's not for others to say you can't exploit it.'
Thirteen-year-old Lottie Moss, Kate Moss's half-sister, has just had her first fashion shoot. Her father has stated, 'Well, you have to take advantage of any opportunities that come along haven't you? If things work out for Lottie and she eventually gets some work it could help her in her future.
It's getting harder and harder to get jobs, university and things like that - so if she can get a couple of jobs early on and get something behind her maybe it makes life easier.'
2. Most agencies that use young models have them wear age-appropriate clothing
It has been claimed that most agencies that employ models in their early teens ensure that they wear age-appropriate clothing.
On November 15, 2011, 13-year-old Chloe Glassie won the Girlfriend Rimmel Model Search.
All eight finalists were dressed in jeans, sneakers and T-shirts - a concerted move to prevent the sexualisation of under-age models, said the magazine's editor Sarah Tarca.
Ms Tarca stated, 'It's age appropriate and the right thing to do. These girls will go on to great things, but right now they are girls.'
The younger the child the more important it is that she is dressed age-appropriately. Thus those agencies that work with very young children claim to be particularly careful not to dress them or otherwise present them in a manner that prematurely sexualises them.
Brats Models director Michael Spott has claimed that he does not sign children to his agency if he believes parents are forcing them into it, and he insists on age-appropriate jobs.
Mr Spott has stated, 'I am not a fan of turning little children into adults.'
3. Most agencies that use young models treat them in an age-appropriate manner
It has been claimed that young models are not mistreated or exploited; rather the agencies that employ them take care to acknowledge their age and treat them in an appropriate manner.
The director of GEAR, Dragan Dimovski, said young models received age-appropriate care and opportunities. Mr Dimovski stated, 'Everything goes past the parents for approval.'
Chic Management director, Kathy Ward, whose agency represents top Australian models, said Chic took on girls aged 13 and 14 but they went through 'apprentice-style management until they are old enough and mature enough to take on the demands of international modelling'.
Oceana Strachan, 15, has signed with GEAR. Her mother, Ms Strachan, has stated, 'What I really liked was that they do encourage their young models to continue with their education.'
4. Many successful models began while quite young
It has been noted that many successful models began their careers at 13 or 14.
Commentator Libbi Gorr has stated, 'A Dolly cover girl winner in 1997 at age 13 was one Miranda Kerr, who boasts an amazingly down-to-earth mum and grandma. Looking at Kerr now, with all the wonder and jealousy her PR people intend, I still feel confident the girl has got her head right.
She's 28, successful, married to a productive, handsome guy, with access to amazing people and cultures while balancing work with family life. What's so screwed-up about that?'
Similarly, British super model Kate Moss was discovered at 14 and her half-sister, Lottie Moss, has had her first photo shoot at 13.
The director of GEAR, Dragan Dimovski, has stated, 'When you look back at the ages of Miranda Kerr, Elle Macpherson and Naomi Campbell when they started modelling - and even my head booker at GEAR, former international model Naomi Fitzgerald de Grave - then 13 is the right age to enter into the fashion industry.'
5. Australian models are denying themselves international careers because they do not enter the industry early enough
It has been claimed that Australian models enter the industry too late to be of interest to international modelling agencies.
Naomi Fitzgerald de Grave, a booker for GEAR Model Management, has stated, 'I know people may think 13 is very young, but that's what the international brands are looking for in Europe ... Models are too old at 16 now.'
Ms de Grave further stated, 'Younger girls offer more to potential overseas clients, but they have to start their careers early.
Ideally, everything does look better smaller. Realistically, with models, it's not a beauty thing - they're a walking coat hanger. In Europe the demand is for smaller girls.'
A GEAR director, Dragan Dimovski, has stated, 'We are pretty much targeting the younger 13 to 16 [age group]. That's what they're doing internationally. The models in Australia are missing out on opportunities internationally.'
Mr Dimovski has further stated, 'The major international fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Burberry, Calvin Klein and Versace are all using young models. Why? Because in the fashion world small is big; they need young girls as coat hangers. No more, no less. White is the new black and in the fashion world 13 is the new 18.'
Michele Mullen wants age limits lowered for fashion shows and magazine covers to give her 15-year-old daughter the chance to join the industry. She claims daughter Baylee, who has signed with Melbourne and Los Angeles model agencies, is well prepared to enter the elite fashion world, the Herald Sun reported.
Mrs Mullen has stated, 'I think she's missing out on opportunities now purely because of her age, not because of her ability to cope with it. In a lot of careers, the younger you start, the better the opportunities you have. Look at all the sports people. Why is fashion different?'
Further implications
The use of very young girls as fashion models appears undesirable, despite the assurances of some within the fashion industry and the successful careers of some models who entered the industry at a young age.
The capacity of girls of 13 or 14 to give informed consent has to be questioned. It is unlikely that they recognise the potentially damaging demands of the industry, including the distorting effect it could have on their self-image and self-esteem.
It should also be noted that the supposed financial rewards to be gained by those who become part of the fashion industry are overstated. It is a tiny minority who earn the enormous salaries that the well-known super models attract. For many within the industry the work is onerous and the financial rewards are small. It is unlikely that young girls entering the industry at 13 or 14 recognise that their chances of achieving significant success within the industry are slight.
Also concerning is the harmful impact of the normalisation and sexualisation of young girls who are then seen as role models for other women. The use of young models in the fashion industry and elsewhere appears part of a larger trend toward treating girls as sexually available objects from a disturbingly young age. This runs directly counter to societal concerns about paedophilia and child abuse.
It is also concerning that the body shape of prepubescent girls is coming to be accepted as a standard for attractive women. Such a trend is likely to fuel the personal dissatisfaction of older or larger women and has the capacity to foster eating disorders among those liable to the disorder.
Newspaper items used in the compilation of this issue outline
Herald-Sun: November 16, 2011, page 19, news item (photo) by Shannon Deery, `Models too old at 16'.
http://www.heraldsun.com.au/entertainment/fashion/models-deemed-too-old-at-16/story-e6frf8o6-1226196018499
The Age: November 16, 2011, page 3, news item (photo) by Georgina Safe, `16 too old to model: agency'.
http://www.theage.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/16-too-old-to-model-agency-20111115-1nh8i.html
Herald-Sun: November 21, 2011, page 15, news item (photo) by Evonne Barry, `Model baby boom'.
http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/more-news/parents-warned-about-seeking-rich-pickings-for-tiny-tots/story-fn7x8me2-1226200557668
Herald-Sun: November 18, 2011, page 9, news item (photo) by Kim Wilson, `Let kids strut their stuff'.
http://www.news.com.au/national/mum-says-daughter-15-is-ready-for-the-fashion-catwalk/story-e6frfkx0-1226198423212
NOTE: see also the "Internet Information / Web Links and Documents" section for more newspaper and other links.